Van Alstyne, Texas: Proud Past, Bright Future

While driving up US 75, I would pass signs for Van Alstyne and I’d wonder about that place. I liked the name. It sounded like a sci-fi show. It was also a stop on the Interurban Railway that ran from Denison to Waco. So I went up there to see what was what!

It’s about 30 minutes from my house straight up US 75. It’s not a county seat but it sits in both Collin and Grayson Counties.  It was established in 1873 in anticipation of the Houston and Texas Central Railway coming through there. The citizens in Mantua didn't want to pay the railroad company since it was bound to come through their town anyway. Unfortunately for them, Mantua was completely bypassed by the Houston and Texas Central Railway. The town was named for Marie Van Alstyne who was a major shareholder in the railroad.

This is the Van Alstyne Historical Museum. The house was built in 1890 and once belonged to J. S. Cartwright. The house was moved to this location in 1901 by a team of mules! The museum is open Tues - Fri from 10 - 4 and admission is free, though they do accept donations. I didn't get to go into the museum but I plan to go back.

This is the Van Alstyne Depot. This was the passenger depot for the Houston and Texas Central Railroad. Now it's part of the farmer's market.

This is downtown Van Alstyne. This strip of businesses faces the railroad tracks. 

This is the Old First National Bank Building. It was built in 1890. Now it's a hair salon. I'm just glad it wasn't torn down.

This is the First Christian Church of Van Alstyne. The original church was built in Mantua in 1854. Back then there was a rail that went down the middle of the church: Men on one side, women on the other. This church was built in 1888 when the organization moved from Mantua to Van Alstyne. I like the stairs leading up to the sanctuary. It's very regal.

This is the old First Baptist Church Building in Van Alstyne. I liked the looks of this building as well. The land for the church was donated by Charles Carter, who owned the city hotel, among other things. The building was erected in 1917. This building was sold by the church in 2024. Maybe someone can make it some kind of museum.

This is the First United Methodist Church of Van Alstyne. I like this building. While the history of the congregation goes back to the late 1800s, this building was erected and dedicated in 1917.

This is Dorothy Fielder Park. She was a prominent member of the Van Alstyne community. Prior to this being a park was a building that housed Ken's Eat Shop. The building was demolished prior to 1984. On the Van Alstyne Historical Society Facebook page, there's a photo of the building and it appears to have the original Dr Pepper mural.

The entrance to the Van Alstyne Cemetery. It's beautiful. It was established in 1846 and is the final resting place of Collin McKinney for whom the the city of McKinney and Collin County are named. They also have a nice veterans memorial here.

I thought this was a lovely headstone. While it says "McKinney" on the marker, it's not Collin McKinney's headstone. 

I do love a good Coca Cola Mural. This is on Preston Street in Van Alstyne. The tracks of the Interurban Railway are on this street and it's all under construction.

This mural is on the side of the building that used to be a feed store (based on old photos that I saw). I read that at one point this building caught fire but the mural survived. This is on Jefferson Street at the corner of Jefferson and Preston.

Also on Jefferson Street is Bill's Cafe. For 65 years, Bill's Cafe was located in McKinney. In 2022, the restaurant was closed, the building demolished and Bill retired. Though in his 80s, Bill decided to "un-retire" and he re-opened his restaurant in Van Alstyne. In the 1900s the building was the LP Welker Harness and Buggy Shop. The empty lot next to the restaurant is for outdoor seating but it was once the location of the Aztec Theater. Unfortunately, the theater burned down in the 1950s and the lot sat empty.

On Marshall Street is this gem. It was the Commerce State Bank. Jafar's restaurant still has the old bank safe inside! The building was erected in 1903.

Also on Marshall Street is this building. It was erected in 1890 by Charles Carter (whom you might remember as the land doner for the First Baptist Church further up the street). Charles owned a grocery store which took up the first floor. The second floor was an Opera House. It now houses a dance studio.

This is one of the Interurban Railway cars. The Interurban railway went from Denison to Waco, right through Van Alstyne. The railway would have made it possible for local residents to visit downtown Dallas quite easily.  

This building and the little wooden box next to it was once the ticket office and the freight room for the Interurban Railway. It's at the corner of Marshall and Preston. You can still see a small segment of the tracks. Today this whole street is under construction. Note the white building in the background to the left. That was the Van Alstyne Hardware store. I believe it closed in 2017 when the latest owner passed away.

I liked this little town. I love all the history and the fact that they've kept up with it. There are about 4400 people that live here. The one grocery store that was here, the Diamond Grocer, has closed but I'm sure they will come up with another alternative. If you are interested in more of the history of the town, there are a couple of other websites: Van Alstyne Homes is a real estate site but has photos and some history of the buildings downtown. Van Alstyne History gives you a list of links to click on and check out. 

Greenville, Texas: The Cotton Capital of the World

This week our wanderings took us to Greenville Texas which is about 50 miles Northeast of Dallas. The town has quite a history. Their motto from 1921 – 1960 was “The Blackest Land, the Whitest People”.  It’s the county seat of Hunt County. Greenville was founded in 1846 and named for Thomas Green who was a contributor in the establishment of the Republic of Texas.

Prior to the Civil War, Greenville was a farming town. Because people lived mostly on farms, growth of the town was slow. By 1850, they had a post office and a one room schoolhouse. They did not grow a lot of staple crops as it was difficult for the farmers to move their produce since there were no roads and the train hadn’t yet come to town.

While there were enslaved people in Greenville, the town was quite divided on joining the Confederacy. They voted in favor to join by a vote of 416 to 339. There’s a marker called “the spot” that describes the following, “Greenville attorney and State Senator Martin D. Hart was one of several prominent Unionists. He raised a company of men from Hunt County and other areas to fight for the Union in Arkansas. They attacked the rear guard of Hunt County's Company H., 31st Texas Cavalry (CSA) under the command of Lt. Alexander Cameron, whose home once stood on this site.” Hart was eventually captured and hung as a traitor and a spy.  After the war, the tensions were still so bad that Federal Troops were posted in Greenville.

By 1880, the train had come to Greenville. The Missouri, Kansas & Texas arrived in the fall of that year followed by the Red River Railroad and then the Dallas and Greenville Railway in 1886. This made Greenville a “railroad” town. Farmers started planting cotton and Greenville became the cotton capital of the world. Farmers would borrow against their land, kids would be taken out of school to help with the harvest and the producer of the season's first cotton bale got a prize from the town. They also had the world's largest cotton press that pressed 2,073 bales of cotton in 10 hours. They were serious about their cotton in Greenville.

If you want to dig into Greenville and Hunt County history, then you should definitely pay a visit to the Audie Murphy/American Cotton Museum in Greenville. It’s fantastic. This exhibit talks about Greenville's history. This one is about the Carnegie Library that opened in 1904. Unfortunately, the building was razed when the town passed a bond for a new library in 1954. Now the chamber of commerce building sits on this site. Why they couldn't just reuse the building, I don't know.

They have these really cool exhibits that tell you what things cost, how some of the things on display actually worked and what they were used for and what a “day in the life” was like in the early days of the county.

The museum is also a tribute to Audie Murphy who was the most decorated soldier in World War II. Audie was born in Hunt County and falsified his documents so that he could join the Army after the bombing of Pearl Harbor in 1941. For all of his feats during the war, and there many, he suffered from PST. He wrote a book called “To Hell and Back” about his experiences in the war. Then he starred as himself in the movie based on the book. He had a pretty good film career spanning 20 years and starring in 40 movies. Sadly, he was killed in a plane crash in 1971. He’s buried at Arlington National Cemetery. The museum covers his life as well as Hunt county’s contributions to all the wars.

There have been seven courthouses in Hunt County. The first was built in 1847 and was a log cabin. In 1853, a 2-story frame building was erected to replace the log cabin. In 1858, the first brick courthouse was erected and was in use until it was condemned in 1874. The court moved to a building that was the United Episcopal Church. That building was eventually purchased in 1881. In 1883, a new courthouse was built. Unfortunately, 13 months later, a fire tore through downtown and destroyed everything, including the courthouse. In 1885, the courthouse in the above photo was built to resemble the previous courthouse. It was torn down in 1928.

In 1929, the current courthouse was erected and has been in use ever since. It's almost 100 years old.

Here's a photo of the banner that hung near the train station. "Greenville Welcome: The Blackest Land and the Whitest People". There was a saying back then, "That's mighty white of you" which mean that you were "honest" like Whites vs. suspect like Blacks. I've only heard that term used sarcastically. Meanwhile, the sign took on a racist meaning so it was taken down.

The Texan Theater started out as the King Opera House back in 1891. It was a venue for live performances like traveling acting troupes. In 1894, it was destroyed by a fire that demolished the building. It was rebuilt. Another fire in 1898 closed it down until 1901. In 1934, it became the Texan Theater. It was one of the many movie houses in Greenville until the 1970s when it was shut down. The building was used for retail for a short while. Then in 2014, it was purchased and renovated by Greenville local, Barbara Horan. Now you can get dinner and a show there.

This is J.P. "Punk" McNatt's old dealership. It was built in the 1930s. He sold Oldsmobiles and Cadillacs here until the 1980s. The building is empty but I love that they kept the original design and haven't torn it down. 

A Coca Cola mural always makes me happy!

This is the Greenville Texas Post Office. It was built in 1910. It was here that Audie Murphy enlisted in the Army. 

This is the Central Christian Church in Greenville. The congregation began in 1879. The current sanctuary was built in 1899 and is the oldest church in Greenville. It was restored in 1986. It's beautiful!

This is the old Masonic Temple on Stonewall Street. It was built in 1910. The Masons have moved to another building as of 2024. At least they haven't torn the building down.

This is the Katy Depot which was built in 1896 by the MKT railroad. Harry Truman made a whistle stop here. MKT stopped train service here in 1965. For a while this building was the railroad museum. Now it's a school.

This is the Fred Ende Building. Fred was a German immigrant who helped establish the International Order of Odd Fellows in 1858. This building was where they met but it was also Fred's Mercantile store. Now it's retail shops.

This is the oldest house in Greenville, Texas. Our friend Fred Ende built it in 1859 for his bride, Amelia. In 1883, he sold the house to his daughter Louisa and her husband Dr. David Gaillard. After Louisa died in 1957, it was slated to be torn down but was instead moved to the city park. It was moved to the Audie Murphy/American Cotton Museum in 1996.

Fred Ende built a hotel on this site that burned down in the 1883 fire that destroyed many other buildings in the commercial district. Fred's partner, James Armistead, erected this building in 1901 in Fred's honor. The retail store on the first floor is called "My Sister's Closet". That makes me think of my own sister who was always in my closet. 

This is the Popper Building. Built in the 1880s by Edward Popper, an Austrian Immigrant, it was home to a wholesale grocer. Now it's retail.

This is the Paul Matthews Building. It was built in 1929 and housed the Greenville Exchange Bank. When it was chartered in 1879, it was a private bank. Then in 1887, it became the Greenville National Exchange Bank. The bank closed in 1990. Paul Matthews started working at the bank in 1925. He was the chairman of the board from 1970-1974 and a board member until 1990. In 2004, the building was renamed for him on his 100th birthday.

Greenville was not what I expected at all. I thought it would be more like a lot of the other small towns that we visited but there are 28K people that live here. They've had several large companies that were based here like Raytheon, for example. As you drive in from I-30, you can see all the low-to mid hotel chains, all the popular chain restaurants and other retail stores.

The biggest employers there are L3 Harris (which used to be Raytheon before several mergers), The Hunt Regional Medical Center, Greenville ISD and McKesson. They have your big grocery stores like Aldi, WalMart and Brookshires. Paris Junior College is there as well! I think I could live there. It felt very "small-town" but with access to all your standard retail chains.

What I really liked was the museum. I didn't have a chance to read about all the displays and would love to go back and just take my time. It's definitely worth a visit! 

Cincinnati, Ohio: The Queen City

Cincinnati, Ohio! Another stop on our scenic drive around the country. Cincinnati is another place I went for work...fifteen years ago! That was a bit of a stunner when I realized it had been that long since I'd been here. I had a little time to walk around back then but not much.

The city was founded on the Ohio River at the mouth of the Licking River in 1788 and was originally named Losantiville. In 1790, the city was renamed Cincinnati in honor of the Society of Cincinnatus, which was a club whose members were Revolutionary War officers.

One of the many nicknames of the city is "Queen City". This came from a newspaper article written in 1819 and was then memorialized in a poem by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow. In 1811, the steamboat became a popular mode of transportation. With Cincinnati being right on the river, that helped the growth of the city's commerce.

Cincinnati sits across the river from Covington, Kentucky. Kentucky was a slave state and Ohio was a free state. Enslaved people would try to escape across the river. There were plenty of stops on the Underground Railroad to assisted the escapees. When the 1850 Fugitive Slave Act was passed, it required citizens in free states to assist in the recapture of enslaved people. In downtown Cincinnati, they have the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center which is definitely worth a visit.

I was hoping that it was more focused on the Underground Railroad itself and the people that were "conductors". It was more about slavery and lack of freedom, not just of enslaved people but of those in other minority groups. The main exhibit describes how slavery started and how it evolved. 

This is a house on the underground railroad. It demonstrates all the places that the "conductors" could hide escapees. None of these hideouts looks very comfortable and I can only wonder how long people had to stay hidden in these little cubbies. I'm very fascinated by the Underground Railroad and would be very interested in following it to see how it worked. 

I thought this brought up a very valid point. It's explaining fear from the vantage point of the escapee. You had to put your life in the conductor's hands. What if your trust was misplaced? Overall, the museum was very interesting and informative.

This is the John A. Roebling Bridge. He's the guy that designed this bridge as well as the Brooklyn Bridge. The bridge links the city of Covington, KY to Cincinnati, OH. It spans 1057 feet. Construction began in 1856 with the two towers. In 1858, they ran out of money and construction was halted. In 1861, the Civil War started. Pontoon bridges were used to transport men and supplies across the river. In 1863, interest in the Roebling bridge inspired the sale of additional stock. The bridge was opened to foot traffic in December of 1866 and to road traffic on January 1, 1867. When I was here in 2010, the bridge was being renovated. It's beautiful.

One of the many presidents from Ohio is William Howard Taft. His childhood home is a National Historic Site and it's located not far from downtown Cincinnati in a neighborhood called Mount Auburn. William's dad, Alphonso, bought this house in 1851.

This is a view from the front door. The original house went as far as the doorframe behind the stairs. It was eight rooms, four upstairs and four downstairs. Alphonso had a lot of people living here including his parents, his wife, six children, two nurses, two maids, a cook, a laundress and a coachman for a total of 16! He enlarged the house to have 16 rooms plus a basement.

Alphonso and his first wife, Fanny, had five children but only one of them survived. That was Charles Phelps Taft. Alphonso remarried to a woman named Louise. Their first child died. It is assumed their second child, William Howard Taft, was born in this nursery in 1857. This is one of the original rooms on the first floor. This room was on the second left when you walk in the front door. This is our guide. She was awesome!

On the first door on the left is the study. Not all the furniture belonged to the Taft family but all if it is of that time. I really like that old desk. That actually did belong to the Taft family.

On the table in the middle of the room is this box. It's a rotating frame! Kind of like the video frames we have today. You put the photo into the cardboard envelope/holder. It holds up to 7 photos. When you want to change the photo that is displayed, you roll the knobs in the front. The only issue is that due to the rolling, the photos would become torn or bent.

On the first floor to the right was the parlor. This was originally two rooms but when the addition was done to the house by Alphonso, the wall between these rooms was removed so they could have one big room. The two photos facing us are of William's grandparents. The oval frame on the left is his mother, Louise.

This is where the upstairs originally ended. It's a little weird how it worked after the renovation. The stairs go down to a small landing. Then you go down the stairs to the first floor. I'm standing on the landing from the add-on. So to get to the front of the house from here, I'd have to go down a short set of steps and then up that short set to continue on.

The rest of the rooms had various displays about William's life. This was his desk when he was an attorney. The rounded pieces opened up and contained his files. Then that flat piece came down to form a desk. It's very cool. William Howard Taft was the 27the president and also the chief justice on the Supreme Court, which was his dream job. The house is part of the National Park system so it's free to go and check it out. The tour is free as well and very interesting.

While in Cincinnati, we stayed at the Cincinnatian, which is a historic hotel managed by Hilton. It was built in 1882 as the Palace Hotel and for a long time it was the tallest building in Cincinnati. It had 300 guestrooms and on each floor, there was a bathroom on either end of the hall.

In 1951, it was renamed Hotel Cincinnatian. In 1987, it underwent a $25M renovation and the rooms were reduced from 300 to 146. Then in 2018, it underwent another remodel and this marble staircase is the only thing that remains from the original hotel. 

Something you should know about Cincinnati...like St. Louis, they too are a baseball town! The Cincinnati Reds have a long history. We learned some of it when we visited the Cincinnati Reds Hall of Fame and Museum. It's right out side the baseball stadium.

Inside they had tons of memorabilia from the team's past. Famous players include Pete Rose, Johnny Bench, Ken Griffey and Tony Perez among others. The Cincinnati Reds started in 1869 and claim to be the first "All Professional Baseball Team". 

They joined the National League in 1876 but were kicked out because they were selling beer during the games. Their real story begins in 1881 when they joined the American Association as the Cincinnati Red Stockings. In 1890, they joined the National League. 

They won their first World Series in 1919 against the Chicago White Sox. This was the year of the infamous Black Sox Scandal. The Chicago White Sox were accused of losing on purpose! Back then there was no trophy. This one was made for the museum to hold that baseball. It's the ball used in the last out of that World Series. Shoeless Joe Jackson hit the ball to second base and was thrown out at first. These are the teams that appear on the trophy: Chicago White Sox; Cleveland Indians; New York Yankees; Detroit Tigers; St. Louis Browns; Boston Red Sox; Washington Senators; Philadelphia Athletics; Philadelphia Phillies; St. Louis Cardinals; Pittsburgh Pirates; Chicago Cubs; New York Giants; Boston Braves; Brooklyn Robins; Cincinnati Reds.

The museum is cool and has a lot of interesting information about the history of the team. Here, John is on television!

The Reds currently play at the Great American Ballpark. It's right on the Ohio River. They've had seven, yes, SEVEN parks. They started at a place called Bank Street Grounds where they played until 1883. They they moved to League Park I where they played until 1893. They played at League Park II until 1901 and then a place called Palace of the Fans until 1911. From 1912 to 2002, they shared Riverfront Stadium with the Cincinnati Bengals. 

The Great American Ballpark opened in 2003. The team started going by the "Reds" as far back as 1882. Then in the 1950s, due to the "Red Scare" aka communism, they started going by the Redlegs. In 1959 they went back to the Reds.

The mascots for the Reds. From L to R: Mr Red, Mr. Redlegs and Rosie Red. Not pictured is a goofy looking muppet like guy called Gapper.

When the reds win or they hit a home, fireworks are shot from those two smokestacks. They are reminiscent of the old steamboat days. The Reds have won five World Series. They won back to back in 1975 and 1976. In 1976, they swept the NY Yankees. The last time they won was in 1990 when they swept the Oakland Athletics. 

One of the concessions at the game. Porkopolis is another nickname for the city of Cincinnati. It has to do with their large interest in pork. I'm not sure what that means but the dogs from here were good.

Another Cincinnati thing is Skyline Chili. This is a bizarre combination of spaghetti noodles covered with chili, beans and a mountain of cheese. Note the chili and the beans are two separate items. I tried it back in 2010 and was not impressed but the line for this place was crazy!

The Reds won. They beat their rivals, the LA Dodgers 5 - 2.

The Cincinnati Museum of Art is really cool. It's free and it's huge! The building itself is a work of art. The original building was built in 1886 specifically to be an art museum, which was unusual for the time.

It's huge! We were there for a few hours and we didn't scratch the surface. In this gallery, even the furniture is art. This palace bench is from Florence, Italy and was made in the 15th century! While you are allowed to sit on it, I didn't dare.

This Andy Warhol painting of Pete Rose was actually commissioned by the museum. 

I love this staircase! It's beautiful.

While the museum was full of paintings by the masters, this one was one of my favorites. It's called "Two Girls Fishing" and it's by John Singer Sargent.

As you leave the museum and drive around to the exit ramp, this is your view of Cincinnati. Wow!

This building is interesting. It's called the "Queen City Club".  It was considered, “the first business professional men’s club of a modern sort, with its own quarters”. They met on November 12, 1874 & put together the first officers of the Queen City Club. It was started by the men who built this city; Longworth, Probasco, Ramsey, Sinton, Anderson, Taft, & Shillito. The requirement of membership for the club would be to purchase a share of stock for $250. At the very beginning the club occupied the “gentleman’s parlor” of the Grand Hotel for the first two years. In 1876, the club then moved & came underway in a newly built building on Seventh & Elm Street. After many years on Seventh & Elm it was time to move. On June 28, 1927, the Queen City Club moved to Fourth & Broadway where it is still located today.

This is the Taft Museum of Art. Built in 1820, it was initially the home of Martin Baum. In 1830, he sold the house to Nicholas Longfellow who eventually sold the house to David Sinton and his daughter Anna. Anna married Charles Phelps Taft in 1873 and lived there with David Sinton. When Sinton died in 1900, Anna inherited his great fortune and the Tafts spent the money on art. This place opened as a museum in 1932.

When the house was owned by Nicholas Longfellow, he hired Robert Duncanson, a Black artist, to paint these murals in the front entryway. This would have been in the 1830s, which was probably unheard of at the time. Duncanson was the first Black artist to achieve international acclaim. Plus these murals were painted in the 1830s!

There weren't many people there. One of the docents was chatting with us. He mentioned this painting, called "Changing Pasture" by Anton Mauve. It looks like they are heading straight to the back of the painting but if you stand to either side, the road curves and it looks like they are headed in a different direction. The museum had tons of cool art but I would have liked more of a history of the house.

I liked walking around downtown and just looking at all the cool old buildings. This is the Guilford building. Built in 1914, this place used to be a school until 1973. Now it's owned by Western & Southern Life. It looks like it's getting some love in the form of rehab. Now it's an office building. I love that they don't just tear stuff down here.

This was one of the pieces of art in our hotel room. I thought it looked so cool that I wanted to go see the building in person.

It's the Cincinnati Music Hall built in 1878 and restored in 2017. I would love to have gone inside or to see a performance here. It's the home of the Cincinnati Symphony Orchestra, the Cincinnati Ballet and other performing groups. I read that Ella Fitzgerald performed here. Wouldn't that have been amazing to see?

This is the First Lutheran Church in Cincinnati. It was formed in 1841! They were a very progressive institution from the start, being supportive of women's suffrage. This current building, a Romanesque Revival structure dedicated in 1895, is a prominent landmark in Over-the-Rhine.

I thought this looked really cool. The mural is called "An homage to Cincinnatus" by Richard Haas. It looks like you could walk right up that staircase!

One thing we did most every night while here in Cincinnati is walk down by the River. I loved it down there. There is a walking trail, historical statues and this maze. It's based on a thirteenth century design from the Chartres Cathedral, the labyrinth is designed to be a peaceful place of quiet meditation. It is different from a maze in that there is only one path in and out. It has been said that you enter a maze to get lost and a labyrinth to find yourself. Cool no?

We enjoyed our time in Cincinnati. About 309K people live there. I think they've really cleaned up the city since I was there in 2010. I never felt unsafe walking around at anytime. There are several companies that have a presence here. Kroger, Proctor & Gamble, Western & Southern Life and Fifth Third Bank to name a few. Next time you're nearby, stop in and check it out!